Quick-Reference
|
Phase |
EC (mS/cm) |
pH |
Key N-P-K Focus |
Light Hours |
|---|---|---|---|---|
|
Seedling |
0.8–1.2 |
5.8 |
N boost for rootlet growth |
14 h |
|
Vegetative |
1.4–1.8 |
5.5–6.0 |
Higher N + Ca/Mg |
16 h |
|
Early Bloom |
1.8–2.0 |
6.0 |
Ramp P & K |
14 h |
|
Heavy Fruit |
2.0–2.2 |
6.0–6.2 |
Elevated K, steady Ca |
12 h |
Keep solution 18–22 °C, RH 60–70 %, and aim for 350–450 ppm CO₂ if growing indoors.
Choosing the Best Strawberry Varieties for Hydroponics (AU-Friendly)
Not all strawberries are created equal in hydroponics — and picking the right variety can make the difference between average berries and festival-worthy flavour. In Australia, we love a day-neutral type for year-round crops, but you’ll also see June-bearing and everbearing varieties if you’re chasing specific harvest windows.
- Day-neutral champs: ‘Albion’, ‘San Andreas’, ‘Seascape’ — these keep flowering and fruiting under long lights and are ideal for indoor LEDs or balconies.
- June-bearing types: Great if you want a big, seasonal flush and traditional field taste, but you’ll only get one main harvest in shorter light cycles.
- Everbearing: A middle ground — fruit early, stop, then fruit again later.
When you’re choosing, think about temperature tolerance and flavour profile too: day-neutrals often handle warmer LED setups better and tend to carry more sweetness under steady EC control, while classic field varieties can bring that intense aroma we all love. Pick what suits your setup and your taste buds. 🌱
Why hydroponic strawberries?
Hydroponics lets you push berries past soil limits: higher density per m², 25–40 % faster growth and zero soggy crowns after big East-coast rains. With precise nutrition you’ll beat supermarket flavour, colour and shelf-life every time!
Choose your system
|
NFT Channels |
Deep-Water Culture |
Coco/Perlite Drip |
|
Lightweight rails fit balconies; constant flow keeps roots oxygenated. |
Buckets or tubs – easiest for beginners; just suspend the net-pots. |
More buffer against pH swings; suits growers using organic additives. |
Regardless of system, the nutrient backbone stays the same – and that’s where Professor Nutrients A&B takes centre-stage. Grab the one-litre A&B kit here for small systems, or scale to 5 L or 10 L once you’re hooked.
Propagation: Crowns, Plugs & Runners
How you start makes a huge difference. In hydroponics you’ve got a few options:
- Plugs/starts: These are little nursery plants already rooted — easiest for beginners and most predictable.
- Bare crowns: Cheaper, but gently ease them into hydro so they don’t stress. Aim for lush roots before pushing EC up.
- Runners: Once your plants are established, they’ll start sending out runners. These can be rooted for new plants, but if your goal is big berry yields now, gently snip runners off so the plant focuses energy down into fruit production.
Runners can be a great way to expand your patch without buying more starts — just keep them moist and in gentle light until roots are established.
Setting perfect parameters
-
Water: Start with rain or RO (< 80 ppm) to avoid random Ca/Na spikes.
-
Mixing sequence: Add Part A, stir 30 sec, then Part B – never together in concentrate to prevent lock-out.
-
pH adjust: Use your pH down or up to adjust the nutrients to between pH 5.5 and 6. Readjust the tank when the pH reaches 6.2+ pH.
-
Temperature: Keep rez 18–22 °C.
If you’re new to two-part systems, A & B Nutrients: The Ultimate Australian Guide to 2-Part Hydroponic Feeding (2025) breaks down exactly why strawberries respond so well to clean, correctly separated A/B mixes.
Reservoir Hygiene & Water Quality — 2026 Grower Notes
Clean water is half the battle in hydroponics. Even with great nutrients, stale tanks and biofilm are yield killers.
- Change schedule: Do a full reservoir swap every 7–14 days, or sooner if EC drifts more than ~0.3 mS/cm.
- Biofilm & clogging: Every quarter, give your whole system a peroxide rinse — it breaks down slime and keeps drippers flowing.
-
Water source decision-tree:
– Rainwater/RO: Lowest salts and baseline EC — best place to start.
– Tap water: Mostly fine, but watch bicarbonates, calcium & magnesium load — these can spike EC unexpectedly. If your source EC is over ~0.8 mS/cm, give it a light RO mix or balance with Cal-Mag first.
Keeping your tank and lines clean isn’t glamorous, but it’s how pro hydro growers avoid messy lockouts and frustrating pH swings.
Light Hours, Intensity & Strawberry Quality
Light isn’t just about hours — it’s also how much energy your plants actually get. Hydro growers often run 12–16 h days, but if your intensity is too low (low DLI), you’ll see pale leaves and soft fruit even with long photoperiods.
-
Light hours: Aim for ~14–16 h under LEDs for steady flowering + fruit set.
-
Intensity (DLI): Beyond hours, how bright your lights are impacts sugars and flavour. If your strawberries look weak or sour, consider moving them closer (safely) or upping wattage a touch.
- Common mistake: Long hours with weak light — plants get confused and stall.
For a quick check: vigorous, deep green leaves and firm, evenly coloured berries usually mean both hours and intensity are in a sweet spot.
Feeding schedule (per 10 L stock tank)
|
Week |
Nutrient ml/10 L |
Notes |
|---|---|---|
|
1 |
15 ml A + 15 ml B |
Seedlings, shaded light |
|
2–3 |
20 ml A + 20 ml B |
Rapid veg push |
|
4 (first flowers) |
22 ml A + 25 ml B |
Lift P & K |
|
5–6 |
20 ml A + 30 ml B |
Peak fruit swell |
|
7 |
Flush with plain water |
Improves shelf-life |
If you own an EC meter, stick to the EC ranges in the Quick-Reference.
Pollination & environment hacks
-
Gently vibrate the flowers with an electric toothbrush or fan breeze.
-
Day temp 22–24 °C; nights 18 °C for uniform sizing.
-
Keep leaves dry – overhead misters invite botrytis and crown rot.
For a full breakdown of organic, food-safe sprays that suppress botrytis and mildew in recirculating systems, check out our Best Organic Fungicides in Australia: 2026 Guide.
Pests, Disease & Integrated Pest Management (Hydro)
Hydroponics skips soil bugs, but you still need good hygiene and early control. Here’s what we see most in indoor grows:
-
Spider mites, thrips & aphids: They’re small, sneaky and love dry leaves or dusty setups. A regular once-over with a magnifier and removing sticky leaves early saves bigger headaches.
-
Botrytis (grey mould): Strawberries hate wet crowns. We already talk about keeping leaves dry, but add good airflow and reject any stagnant pockets — especially in high humidity.
- Regular checks: Every watering day, give plants a once-around for tiny webs, distortion, or sticky trails; early action keeps sprays minimal.
Hydro-friendly IPM tips:
– Sticky traps for flying pests.
– Spray with food-safe neem or soap wash on cooler parts of the day.
– Flush lines and clean drippers between runs so pests don’t overwinter in the system.
Troubleshooting at a glance
|
Symptom |
Likely Cause |
Fast Fix |
|---|---|---|
|
Upward curl + bronzing edges |
EC too high |
Dilute rez 20 % |
|
Pale new leaves |
Iron lock-out at pH > 6.3 |
Drop pH to 5.9 |
|
Small, misshapen fruit |
Potassium deficit |
Boost Part B 10 % |
For long-term structural strength—especially in tall, LED-grown strawberry towers—Silica for Plants in Australia: The No-Nonsense Guide to Stronger, Happier Crops explains why silica tightens internodes and improves fruit hold.
Harvest Timing & Flavour Tips
Knowing when to pick is as important as knowing how to feed. Strawberries ripen fastest when sugars spike — and you get that sweet, juicy punch we all chase.
-
Timing: Berries are best harvested when fully red from tip to stem — that’s when sugars are at their peak. If you pick too green out of habit, they’ll ripen but won’t be as sweet.
-
Morning pick: Cooler hours keep berries firmer and last longer in the fridge.
-
Post-harvest care:
– Cool quickly — warm berries lose flavour.
– Don’t wash until right before eating — moisture shortens shelf life.
These simple habits turn good hydro strawberries into great ones.
Pro tips for next-level yields
-
Additives: A teaspoon of kelp or humic acid in veg improves root mass – find both in our hydroponic additives collection.
-
Cultivar choice: Day-neutral ‘Albion’ and ‘San Andreas’ smash it under LED rigs, giving fruit every four weeks once established.
- Quarterly rez deep-clean: 3 % peroxide rinse kills bio-film and keeps drippers flowing.
And if you’re considering expanding beyond strawberries, The Complete 2026 Guide to Hydroponic Nutrients & Additives in Australia shows how to scale your nutrient program across herbs, leafy greens and fruiting crops without guesswork.
Quick Checklists for Success
First-Week Hydro Checklist
✔ Start with clean water and scrubbed lines.
✔ Pick your variety + prep crowns/plugs.
✔ Set lights at ~14–16 h and check intensity.
✔ Mix nutrients (Part A then B), stabilise pH 5.8-6.2.
✔ Daily visual pest check.
Weekly Maintenance
✔ Swap reservoir on schedule.
✔ Clean drippers/nozzles.
✔ Airflow check.
✔ Leaf health scan.
Before Flowering
✔ Confirm pollination method ready.
✔ Adjust P/K up slightly.
✔ Clear lower leaves for airflow.
FAQ
Do I need to hand-pollinate hydroponic strawberries?
Not always — day-neutral types under good airflow may self-pollinate, but gentle vibration or a brush usually boosts fruit size and uniformity.
How long until harvest?
Depending on variety and conditions, strawberries typically move from start to first harvest in 8–16 weeks.
Can I use organic nutrients in hydro?
Yes — many growers see success with food-safe organics, but keep your lines clean and monitor for film build-up.
What’s the best water source?
Rain or RO is ideal; tap water works too but check bicarbonates and baseline EC before mixing.
Ready to grow?
Professor Nutrients A&B this month. Pair it with our full Hydroponic Nutrients range for unbeatable berry flavour and consistency.
Happy growing – and remember, if the data says tweak, tweak. The strawberries will always tell you the truth.
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