Create Your Own Organic Fertilizer Blends!

Here is a collection of some of the worlds most famous Super Soil & Living Soil nutrient recipes for you to make at home yourself!

I have tried to scale them down for home gardeners, and have converted the information to the easiest measurements for us Aussies!

Understanding what each ingredient does in your soil

Before mixing any fertiliser blend, it helps to understand why each ingredient is included and what role it plays in the soil. Organic fertilisers don’t feed plants directly — they feed soil life, which then feeds your plants.

Here’s a simple breakdown of some common organic amendments and how they’re typically used:

  • Composted manures & animal meals
    Provide slow-release nitrogen and phosphorus. These support steady leafy growth and microbial activity without the spikes you get from synthetic fertilisers.

  • Rock minerals (rock dust, soft rock phosphate, gypsum)
    Supply trace elements and minerals that many Australian soils are naturally low in. These don’t act quickly, but they improve soil health over time.

  • Lime & dolomite
    Used to adjust soil pH and supply calcium (and magnesium in the case of dolomite). These are important for root development and nutrient uptake, especially in acidic soils.

  • Seaweed meals
    Low in NPK but rich in trace elements and natural growth stimulants. They support root development, stress resistance, and overall plant resilience.

  • Carbon-rich materials (compost, humus)
    Improve soil structure, water retention, and microbial diversity. These form the foundation of any healthy organic system.

Not every soil needs every ingredient. The goal is balance — building a complete soil ecosystem rather than chasing specific nutrient numbers.

Start with your soil, not the recipe

No fertiliser blend is truly “one-size-fits-all.” Australian soils vary widely, and what works brilliantly in one garden may be unnecessary in another.

A basic soil test can tell you:

  • pH level
  • Major nutrient balance
  • Calcium and magnesium ratios

This information helps you decide whether amendments like lime, dolomite, or extra minerals are actually needed. Adding nutrients blindly can do more harm than good, even in organic systems.

Think of recipes as starting points — your soil should always have the final say.

A note on measurements

Most organic fertiliser recipes are written by weight, not volume. A cup of one ingredient may weigh very differently to a cup of another.

If you want consistent results:

  • Use a simple kitchen scale where possible
  • Stick to the same measuring method each time
  • Focus on ratios rather than exact numbers

Precision helps, but perfection isn’t required — organic systems are resilient.

You can click each ingredient to be taken to our product page! 

Super Soil Recipe

This soil recipe is typically used in the bottom 1/3 of the pot, with a base potting soil placed above it in the same growing container. As the plant grow’s, its roots will grow into this nutrient dense layer, getting nutrition as its required.

Per 30L of soil

Coots Mix Recipe

This recipe can be planted into the same day that you mix your soil. To create a base soil for this recipe, simply use our Living Soil recipe guide.

Per 30L of soil

Steve Solomon’s Complete Organic Fertilizer (COF)

This recipe is designed by Steve Solomon & is perfect for re mineralizing new potting soils, and existing garden beds.

To make 1kg

Adjusting blends for different plant needs

The blends above work as general soil builders, but plants don’t all use nutrients in the same way. You can fine-tune any organic fertiliser mix by slightly adjusting the emphasis depending on what you’re growing.

  • Leafy greens and lawns
    These prefer higher nitrogen availability. Blends with more composted manures or seed meals will support steady leaf growth without becoming excessive.

  • Root crops (carrots, potatoes, beetroot)
    Too much nitrogen can cause leafy growth at the expense of roots. A more balanced blend with good mineral content tends to perform better here.

  • Flowering and fruiting plants
    Once established, these benefit from slightly higher potassium and phosphorus, along with trace elements that support flowering and fruit set.

  • Perennials, shrubs, and fruit trees
    These respond best to gentle, long-term feeding. Regular top-dressing with mineral-rich organic blends supports soil health year after year.

The key is moderation. Organic fertilisers work best when applied consistently at low rates rather than heavily and infrequently.

How much to use and how to apply organic fertiliser blends

Organic fertilisers are forgiving, but they’re still most effective when applied correctly.

As a general guide:

  • Garden beds:
    Apply roughly 1–2 handfuls per square metre as a top-dress.

  • Pots and containers:
    Use a light sprinkle over the soil surface, scaled to pot size.

  • Fruit trees and shrubs:
    Apply around the dripline rather than directly against the trunk.

After application:

  1. Lightly scratch the fertiliser into the top few centimetres of soil.
  2. Water well.
  3. Cover with mulch if possible to protect soil life and retain moisture.

Most organic systems benefit from feeding once in spring and once in autumn, with lighter applications during active growth if needed.

Simple liquid options for beginners

If mixing dry amendments feels like a big step, liquid organic fertilisers can be a gentle entry point.

Common beginner options include:

  • Worm farm liquid or diluted worm tea
  • Compost tea made from finished compost
  • Diluted seaweed extracts

These liquids don’t replace proper soil building, but they can provide short-term support during periods of active growth or stress.

Always dilute according to recommendations, and avoid applying to dry soil.

A few important safety notes

  • Avoid using fresh manures, as they can burn plants and harm soil life.
  • More fertiliser does not mean better results — excess nutrients can disrupt microbial balance.
  • Always water after applying dry fertilisers.
  • Healthy soil biology matters more than high nutrient levels.

Organic gardening is about long-term soil health. Slow, steady improvements always outperform quick fixes.


About the Author

Scott Cheney - Dr Greenthumbs
Scott Cheney is the Director and Founder of Dr Greenthumbs, with over a decade of hands-on experience in organic gardening. Growing up in rural NSW, Scott’s passion for unusual plants – from cacti to entheogens – evolved into a full-blown commitment to chemical-free gardening when he bought his first property in Wollongong. For the past 8 years running Dr Greenthumbs, Scott has developed unique, first-to-market products like TurboDirt Water Only soil and 100% dry amendment fertiliser blends. When he’s not testing new mixes, you’ll find him swapping gardening tips like your local mate, not giving the hard sell.
Growing tipsLiving soilSoil building