What are Aqua Master Replacement Electrodes & Parts used for?
They let you replace the sensor tip of your Aqua Master meter without buying a whole new unit. This restores accuracy, reduces e-waste, and costs less long-term—especially for pH and EC probes that wear out over time.
How do I know which Aqua Master replacement electrode I need?
Match the electrode to your meter model. P50 uses the P50 pH electrode, E50 uses the E50 EC electrode, and P110/P160 meters use their matching EC/pH combo electrodes. Never swap between models unless confirmed compatible.
What’s the difference between the P50, E50, and combo electrodes?
The P50 measures pH, the E50 measures EC, and the P110/P160 combo electrodes measure both pH and EC in one probe. All include temperature sensing when supported by the meter.
How long do Aqua Master electrodes last, and when should I replace them?
Lifespan varies with care and usage. Signs it’s time to replace: slow response, drifting readings, failed calibration, or unstable numbers—even after cleaning and using fresh solutions.
Can I replace the electrode myself, and do I need tools?
Yes. Most Aqua Master electrodes are designed for easy, tool-free replacement. Just make sure the new sensor is seated properly to avoid leaks or bad readings.
Do I need to calibrate after installing a new electrode?
Absolutely. After installation, rinse the electrode, then calibrate pH with pH 7.0 and 4.0 solutions, and EC with the standard your meter expects (commonly EC 2.77). Calibrate both modes if you're using a combo sensor.
Should I hydrate a new Aqua Master pH electrode before use?
Yes. A short soak in KCl storage solution helps hydrate the pH bulb for stable readings. Never store pH probes in RO, distilled, or tap water—use proper KCl solution only.
How do I clean Aqua Master replacement electrodes?
Use pH probe cleaner for the P50, and rinse off buildup on EC sensors like the E50. Organic nutrients can foul probes faster, so clean regularly and recalibrate after.
Why are my readings drifting even after replacing the electrode?
Drift is often caused by contaminated calibration solutions, temperature swings, poor probe seating, or skipping calibration. If the issue persists, double-check model compatibility and try a test in fresh buffer or EC solution.
Can I leave the Aqua Master electrode in the reservoir all the time?
These probes are built for regular dunking, not permanent submersion—unless your model explicitly supports it. For routine use, rinse after testing and store pH probes in KCl solution between uses.
Can I use Aqua Master electrodes with harsh chemicals?
Avoid direct contact with undiluted nutrients, pH up/down, or cleaners. Always dilute chemicals fully before measuring to protect the probe surface and ensure accurate readings.
Do I need to calibrate both EC and pH if I’m only using one function?
Yes—if you want reliable readings from that function, calibrate it. For combo probes, best practice is to calibrate both EC and pH regularly, even if you primarily use one mode.
Do EC electrodes need hydration or storage solution like pH probes?
No. EC sensors don’t require hydration. Just rinse them clean after use. Only pH probes need to be stored in KCl storage solution to stay accurate.
What should I do immediately after installing a new Aqua Master electrode?
Rinse it, soak the pH part (if applicable) in KCl, calibrate both EC and pH using fresh solutions, then take a test reading in a known standard to confirm stability before regular use.
What’s the best care routine for Aqua Master electrodes?
Store pH probes in KCl solution, clean regularly, avoid straight concentrates, rinse between uses, and calibrate on schedule. If readings look off, recheck calibration before assuming failure.
